Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Taj Mahal and Agra Fort

Agra's top two sights by far are the incomparable Taj Mahal and Agra Fort.

The Taj Mahal is an immense mausoleum of white marble, built in 1600s by order of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife. Taj Mahal means Crown Palace; one of the wife's names was Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj is one of the most well preserved and architecturally beautiful tombs in the world, and one of the great sites of the world's heritage.

The Taj Mahal is a monument of love. The Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore called it a teardrop on the cheek of eternity, while the English poet, Sir Edwin Arnold, said it was not a piece of architecture, as other buildings are, but the proud passions of an emperor's love wrought in living stones. Why we love -- lay bare the mysteries of our most treasured emotion.

Millions of years ago, we evolved three basic drives: the sex drive, romantic love and attachment to a long-term partner. These circuits are deeply embedded in the human brain. They’re going to survive as long as our species survives. — Helen Fisher

It is one of the most photographed edifices in the world and instantly recognisable. Not everything is in the photos. The grounds of the complex include several other beautiful buildings, reflecting pools, and extensive ornamental gardens with flowering trees and bushes. The Taj reflected in a pool is amazing.

I overheard from a tour guide that Shah Jahan planned to build an exact copy out of black marble on the opposite side of the river. His plans were foiled by his son, who murdered three elder brothers and overthrew his father to acquire the throne. Shah Jahan is now buried alongside his wife in the Taj Mahal.

Agra Fort is similar in layout to the Red Fort in Delhi, but better preserved, as much of Delhi Fort was razed by the British after the Mutiny.  It is also constructed mainly from red sandstone.

Emperor Akbar, king at 14, began consolidating his empire and, as an assertion of his power built the fort in Agra in 1500s, at the same time as Humayun's Tomb in Delhi. Emperor Shah Jahan added to the fort and ended up living a prisoner in it. The fort has a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal, on a clear day.

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